The Art Nouveau Jewelry Period
The Art Nouveau period of jewelry was first started in France during a period called “La Belle Epoche” or The Beautiful Time. This style of jewelry occurred at the same time as the Victorian Era and was intended to make a statement against industrializing jewelry making. The Art Nouveau jewelry featured designs that were curvy and fluid. Typical images included nude female figures, heads, insects, crescents and common plants. Often the designs were used to have mystical symbolism. Most of the jewelry during this era was considered avant garde and only the boldest individual wore it.
In Art Nouveau jewelry gems were often paired with unusual materials like horn, amber, ivory and blister pearls. The artistry of the jewelry piece was the most important. The materials used in designing the jewelry were considered secondary. The jewelry often featured plants and animals which were considered too common for jewelry. Art Nouveau made everyday items an emblem of beauty and style to be celebrated.
Art Nouveau was influenced by the new and exciting art of Japan. This occurred during the opening of Japan to the west in 1853. Prior to this time Japan had been a closed society and this country featured a variety of mysterious and exotic designs. Japan’s scenes of nature had a huge impact on European arts and designs. Many Japan enamels were duplicated in Art Nouveau jewelry designs.
By 1915 the Art Nouveau style was no longer actively produced. By this time Art Nouveau had become old-fashioned and many packed away their pieces of jewelry, had them altered or got rid of them entirely. You will not find a lot of Art Nouveau style reproductions. Some of these can closely replicate the antique versions. It takes a well trained eye to study old and new pieces of Art Nouveau jewelry to determine the difference.
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